Balanced Distinction

High in the Tyrolean Alps of Italy lies the tiny town of Tramin.  Since the beginning of recorded history, the people of this quiet village have been cultivating their grapes and making wine among the foothills of the Dolomite Mountains. The Tyrolean’s use of wooden storage barrels was well documented by the Roman Empire more than two millenniums ago, and their pergola training systems still persist in the area today. Thus, it is only fitting that an area with this much distinction and history is also the birthplace of the distinctive wine varietal, Gewürztraminer.

Although the vines are still prevalent in Italy, the Germans and the French have placed Gewürztraminer prominently on the global wine scene. The Germans, who are responsible for the name, produce an off-dry Gewürztraminer, while the French prefer a drier approach. Alsace, a region disputed for centuries by France and Germany, is largely recognized as the current king of Gewürztraminer. The cool climate, relatively low precipitation levels, and adequate sun exposure in Alsace are considered ideally suited to the special needs of the obstinate vines, which are considered by viticulturists to be one of the most difficult to grow.

Being a bit contrarious themselves, the Alsatians choose to defy the usual conventions of Europe by naming their wines after grapes instead of appellation or wine style. As the smallest region in France, a large majority of the 6000 growers in the region are managing vineyards of less than 5 acres in total size, of which, on average, less than 1 acre is Gewürztraminer. Thus, most of the 29 million bottles of Alsatian Gewurztraminer produced every year are compiled from tens of hundreds of growers by huge shipping conglomerates that blend and export the resulting product. So, unless the bottle is designated as a cuvée, or single vineyard block, the consumer is getting a wine that is representative of a region as opposed to a very personal and specific site.

Here at Lamoreaux, we make our Gewürztraminer exclusively from two estate vineyards, managing each and every vine to obtain the perfect symmetry of varietal and site expression. “Balance” is the theme to remember when growing and producing an ultra-high quality Gewürztraminer. There is a strong tendency for growers to over-crop with Gewürztraminer, as the small cluster and berry size, time intensive viticultural management techniques, and unpredictable nature of the vines make it a very expensive varietal to undertake and do well. Over-cropping, however, only makes the problem worse, as this practice further dilutes the desired attributes of the wine while adding undue stress on the vines for the next season. Because we never sacrifice quality at any cost, we have chosen instead to develop an intimate relationship with our vines; one which promotes the proper expression of varietal character, while still capturing the terroir of our carefully selected sites and viticultural practices.

We foster this balanced relationship throughout the year to keep the vine healthy and happy, gleaning a few small details every season. Over time, listening to the vines provides us with the ability to manage the vineyards in a way that exploits the strengths of every vintage. This intimate knowledge of the vines allows us to make a beautifully dry wine, which allows for the full expression of the year’s characteristics without the residual sugar. As a result, and in keeping with the rich history and tradition of the Alsatians and Tyroleans, we are able to offer our customers a food-friendly tour de force. So what is the bottom line? Gewürztraminer is truly a labor of love for us, and when paired with a quality Muenster cheese, Thai cuisine, or even wild game, it is one of the most distinctive experiences that any wine lover can embark upon.